RECIPE - Chayote Gratin (Tigelada de Chuchu)

The recipe, the second that we have published from the historical recipe collection of the Fazenda Capoava Ranch and Hotel in São Paulo state (as reimagined by chef Heloísa Bacellar) is an interesting combination between a traditional French vegetable gratin and a souffle. And the choice of chayote (chuchu in Portuguese) as the principal ingredient makes it thoroughly Brazilian as well.

The dish combines the bechamel sauce, grated cheese and bread crumbs that are integral parts of a gratin with beaten egg yolks and white that lighten it in the style of a souffle. The result is a substantial and rich side dish, one that adds some punch to the subtle delicate flavor of chayote. The dish could probably be made successfully with other vegetables if you can't find chayotes in your local market; however, this native American vegetable can increasingly be found in supermarkets everywhere, and can easily be sourced in Latin American markets.
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RECIPE - Chayote Gratin (Tigelada de Chuchu)
Serves 4

2 medium to large chayotes, peeled, seeded and cut into small cubes
1/4 cup butter
1 medium onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1 cup whole milk, wamr
2 Tbsp grated Parmesan cheese
2 whole eggs, separated
softened butter and dried breadcrumbs to grease and prepare the bowl
salt to taste
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Prepare a deep ovenproof bowl or dutch oven by greasing it thoroughly with softened butter, then dusting with dried bread crumbs. Reserve.

In a medium saucepan with a lid, melt half of the butter, then add the onions and garlic and cook over low heat until they soften and just begin to brown . Stir in the cubes of chayote, cover the pan and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, or until the chayote is softened. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley and reserve.

In a small saucepan, prepare the bechamel. Melt the butter, then slowly add the flour, blending completely to avoid lumps. When you have a thick paste, begin to add the milk, stirring constantly. When all the milk has been added continue to cook until the sauce thickens. Remove from heat and combine with the reserved chayote. Stir in the cheese and season to taste with salt. Reserve, letting cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). In a large bowl beat the egg whites to the firm peak stage. Stir the lightly beaten egg yolks into the chayote mixture, then carefully fold in the egg whites, taking care not to deflate the beaten eggs. Spoon or pour the mixture into the prepared ovenproof bowl. Smooth the surface gently, then sprinkle bread crumbs over. Put in the preheated oven and cook for 40 minutes, or until it has risen, and turned golden.

Remove from the oven and serve immediately in the bowl it was cooked in.

RECIPE - Shrimp with Chayote (Camarão com Chuchu)

Here in Brazil's north-east shrimp is so good and served so many different ways that it's difficult not to eat it every night of the week. It's also relatively inexpensive, especially by North American or European standards, so it's not out of the question here to buy the more-expensive sea-caught shrimps instead of the cultivated ones, even if most of those are sustainably farmed. The difference in taste is worth every centavo of the difference in price.

This easy recipe from the north-eastern state of Rio Grande do Norte was last night's dinner for us here at Flavors of Brazil and comes from a series of books on regional Brazilian cuisine called Cozinha Regional Brazileira, published by Abril Editora. It combined medium-sized shrimp with the mild-tasting but delectable vegetable known in Spanish as chayote, in English as christophene or vegetable pear, and in Cajun French as mirliton. Here is Brazil it bears the charming name chuchu (pronounced shoo-shoo). Until recently difficult to source in most of North America, chayote has recently moved beyond Latin American ethnic food shops and markets and can now be found in supermarkets everywhere. If you've never tried chayote, this recipe is a perfect introduction, as it's quick, no-fuss and absolutely delicious.
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RECIPE - Shrimp with Chayote (Camarão com Chuchu)
4 portions

1 lb (400 gr) medium shrimp, headless, deveined and peeled
juice of 1 lime
salt and black pepper to taste
1 Tbsp cilantro, finely chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 lb chayote, peeled, depitted and cut into small cubes
1 small chili pepper (malagueta, jalapeno, serrano), halved and deseeded
1 tsp Italian parsley, finely chopped
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In a medium mixing bowl, season the shrimp with the lime juice, salt and pepper to taste and the chopped cilantro. Allow to stand for 15 minutes.

In a medium pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the chopped onion and garlic and saute until the onion just begins to brown. Add the reserved shrimp and cook for a few minutes, stirring, until the shrimp begin to take on a pink color. Add the chopped tomatoes, the chayote cubes and the halved chili pepper. Correct the seasoning for salt, cook for a few minutes over medium heat or until the tomato begins to break up. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan and cook for about 25 minutes or until the chayote is soft and tender. Add additional water by 1/4 cup amounts if needed to prevent drying out.

Remove from heat, discard the chili pepper halves, add the chopped parsley and toss briefly. Place in a decorative serving bowl and serve immediately accompanied by white rice.

RECIPE - Chayote Frittata (Torta de Chuchu)

In Portuguese, this dish is called torta de chuchu which literally means chayote pie. It really isn't a pie though except in shape. It's not even a quiche as it lacks the pastry crust a quiche requires.

It really is closest to what the Italians call a frittata - basically an open-faced omelet enriched with added ingredients. In this case, these ingredients are chayote (chuchu), red onion, parsley and grated Parmesan cheese.

This dish is perfect as a main course for a lunch, or for a light supper. It needs only a green salad, or a sliced-tomato salad, plus a fruit-based dessert to complement it.
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RECIPE - Chayote Frittata (Torta de Chuchu)
Serves 6

2 chayotes, peeled, seeded and cubed
1 small red onion, finely chopped
2 Tbsp finely chopped Italian parsley
3 whole free-range eggs, lightly beaten
1 Tbsp butter, softened
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, fresh-grated if possible
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Preheat oven to 350F (180C).  Using the softened butter, generously grease a glass or non-stick metal pie pan.

In a medium saucepan, bring 4 cups (1 liter) salted water to a boil. Add the chayote cubes and boil for about one minute. Drain the chayote in a colander, refresh in cold water and drain again. Reserve.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the eggs and flour with a mixer or wire whisk. Add the reserved chayote, the onion and parsley. Finally add the grated cheese, reserving about 1 Tbsp.

Pour the egg mixture into the pie pan, sprinkle the Tbsp of grated cheese on top, then place in the preheated oven. Cook for about 15-20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the top is lightly browned. Remove from oven and let stand for 5 minutes.

Cut into 6 wedges and serve immediately.

RECIPE - Spicy Chayote Salad (Salada de Chuchu Picante)

This very-easy and quick-to-prepare salad of baby chayotes (mini chuchus in Portuguese), from the Brazilian website Receitas e Dicas,  can be served warm or at room temperature. It's best not to chill it, as refrigeration diminishes the already-subtle flavor of chayote and will result in a very bland salad experience. The spiciness of the salad can be adjusted up or down by regulating the quantity of garlic and red pepper flakes. In Brazil this salad would be quite spicy but the heat of the peppers shouldn't overwhelm the chayote itself.
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RECIPE - Spicy Chayote Salad (Salada de Chuchu Picante)
Serves 4

3 medium chayotes
1 medium yellow onion, not-too-finely chopped
1 clove garlic, very thinly sliced
1 Tbsp red or white wine vinegar
hot red pepper flakes, to taste
salt and pepper to taste
extra-virgin olive oil
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Peel the chayotes using a vegetable peeler, cut them in half in the wider direction, then using a spoon scoop out the large seed. Cut the chayote flesh into 1/4 in (1 cm) slices.

Bring a large quantity of water to a boil in a large pan. Add the chayote slices and cook until just softened. Do not overcook. Drain into a colander, then refresh in running cold water to stop the cooking process. Drain again, reserve.

In a small sauté pan heat some olive oil, then add the garlic slices. Cook until brown and crispy, adding the desired quantity of red pepper flakes about halfway through the cooking process. Reserve.

In a large frying pan, heat additional oil then add the chopped onion. Cook until transparent but not browned. Add the vinegar and cook briefly. Add the chayote slices, and with a wooden spoon mix them with the dressing carefully, making sure not to break up the slices. Remove from heat, then add the garlic/red pepper/oil mixture from the sauté pan. Stir again, carefully.

Let rest a few minutes if you wish to serve the salad warm, or reserve until cooled to room temperature and then serve.

INGREDIENTS - Chayote (Chuchu)

Of all the edible plant families, the Cucurbitaceae clan has to be one of the most varied and also one of the most ubiquitous. The family name itself probably means nothing to 99.99% of the world's population, but there are very few people wandering the earth who haven't eaten one or another of the family members at some time - a cucumber, a cantaloupe, a watermelon, a pumpkin, a zucchini or a honeydew melon.

One member of this family, scientifically known as Sechium edule, has a long history as an important food crop in Meso-American and South America, but it's only within the past decade or so that it has become an established menu item in North America and Europe - excepting in Cajun cuisine where it's always been an integral part of the culinary larder. In Louisiana they call it a mirliton, but most of the rest of North America calls it by its Mexican name, chayote. In the English-speaking Caribbean, it's a christophene and in India it's a chow chow. In Brazil, where it is a common ingredient in salads, stews and mixed vegetable preparations, it's a chuchu.

Chuchu is almost always available in vegetable markets and supermarkets in Brazil, without a definite season and it's always inexpensive. Yesterday, in Fortaleza, I bought some for R$0.75/ kg or about USD$0.20/lb. It's particularly associated in Brazil with the cooking of the northeastern region, but grows almost anywhere in this warm-weather country and is eaten in just about every region.

Chuchu can be cooked like almost any other summer squash, such as zucchini or patty-pan, and benefits from shorter cooking period. The flavor is somewhat bland, but combines well with other ingredients in soups or stews. Its uses in the kitchen, however, aren't restricted to cooked dishes - chuchu can also be eaten raw, and makes a great addition to a fresh salad. It also takes very well to pickling.

The next posts on Flavors of Brazil will include some typical Brazilian recipes that feature this versatile vegetable.