RECIPE - Some Sandubas

If Brazil has a Mecca for the extra-large, extra-delicious sandwich that Brazilians love to call sanduba (click here to read more about the sanduba), it has to be São Paulo's Municipal Market. Specifically the mezzanine with its line-up of restaurants open at lunchtime only to serve the thousands of vendors and shoppers who flock to the market in search of the best of the city's foodstuffs.

Downstairs at the market you'll find the usual selection of individual vendors selling fruits, vegetables, grains, spices, oils and pickles, meat, cheese, poultry and seafood. But if you head upstairs at the back of the market just before the lunch hours, you'll find an assortment of open-air restaurants on the mezzanine, all ready to sate that appetite you gained while grazining through the stalls below.

Each restaurant has its regulars, often strongly partisan and extremely loyal. Some of that loyalty even extends to particular items on the menu, and there are stories of customers who have eaten the same lunch daily for umpteen years. What makes or breaks the reputation of these restaurants, often, is the quality (and dimension) of their sandwiches (the sandubas). All the sandwiches are made on a crusty French bun, all have prodigious amounts of stuffing, and all are tremendously filling. But they succeed in their purpose - keep the customer happy and coming back for more.

Here are three recipes for sandubas from the Municipal Market, courtesy of UOL's Gastronomia & Negocios website.

Salt Cod Sandwich

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RECIPE - Salt-cod sandwich (Sanduíche de Bacalhau)

1 large French bun (or Kaiser bun or similar)
5 oz (150 gr) de-salted salt cod
1/4 cup (50 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
red wine vinegar to taste
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Boil the salt cod for two minutes in plenty of water. Drain, reserve.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, then fry the salt cod until it is golden on all sides, using two forks to shred the fish as it fries - remove any bones or skin. When the fish is golden, add the onion and garlic and heat briefly, but do not cook them.

Remove from heat, sprinkle additional olive oil and red wine vinegar over to taste. Do not season with salt.

Cut the bun in two, pack with the filling, cut the sandwich in half and serve hot.

Escabeche Sandwich

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RECIPE - Escabeche sandwich (Sanduíche de Escabeche)

1 large French bun (or Kaiser bun or similar)

Two large fresh sardines, cleaned and deboned
1/4 cup (50 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
1 clove garlic, crushed
red wine vinegar to taste
salt and black pepper to taste
sprig fresh thyme
--------------------------------------------------------------------------  Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the sardines, plus the chopped onion and garlic. Pour red wine vinegar over, but don't drown the sardines. Cook at medium-low temperature until the onions are soft and the fish is cooked.

Remove from heat, sprinkle with additional olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add fresh thyme (leaves only) if desired.


Cut the bun in two, pack with the sardines and vegetables, cut the sandwich in half and serve hot.

Fresh Ham Sandwich

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RECIPE - Fresh Ham Sandwich (Sanduíche de Pernil)

1 large French bun (or Kaiser bun or similar)

6 oz. fresh, (not smoked or cured) ham

2 thick slices large tomato
4 slices medium red or white onion
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp fresh oregano chopped
3 bay leaves
salt to taste

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Twenty-four hours in advance, combine the wine, the oregano and bay leaf in a medium Zip-loc type bag. Add the ham and let marinate in the refrigerator until the next day.

Remove the ham from the marinade and drain thorough. Put the ham in a small roasting pan and cover with aluminum foil. Roast the ham in a preheated 375F (200C) over,for about 20 - 30 minutes, or until the juices run clear. If desired, you can baste once or twice with the left over marinade.

Remove the ham from the oven, place on a cutting board and cover with the aluminum foil. Let rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small frying pan. Add the tomatoes, onions and green peppers and cook until the tomato is breaking up and the onion and peppers are softened. Season with salt.

Slice the ham. Cut the bun in half, fill with the sliced ham, then top with the tomato/onion/pepper sauce. Serve hot.

UPDATE - Brazil's DomesticBacalhau Arrives in the Supermarket

Pirarucu en route to Pão de Açúcar supermarkets

Last month, Flavors of Brazil reported in this post that bacalhau (the Portuguese word for salt cod) was being processed for the first time in Brazil's Amazon region using a gigantic native fresh-water fish called pirarucu instead of true cod, which only comes from the cold waters of the North Atlantic. An environmentally-sustainable product, bacalhau made from pirarucu is remarkably similar to the original product, and for several reasons enjoys a significant price advantage over true salt cod.

This domestic bacalhau is processed in the remote region of Maraã located two thousand miles from Brazil's big cities in the South, and up til now the product's distribution was restricted to villages, towns and cities in the Amazonian basin.

However, as a result of a recent marketing pact between the cooperative in Maraã that produces the domestic salt cod and Brazilian supermarket giant Pão de Açúcar, which was also reported in our earlier article, domestic Brazilian salt cod arrived this week in Pão de Açúcar's stores in São Paulo, just in time for the heightened Holy Week demand for bacalhau.

Tomorrow, Good Friday, is traditionally a meatless day in Brazil. For many Brazilians, it is also a day to feast on bacalhau. This year, for the first time, Brazilians, or at least those who live in São Paulo and shop at Pão de Açúcar, have a patriotic and environmentally-friendly option - they can eat Brazilian bacalhau. Because the North Atlantic cod fishery is perilously close to extinction, let's hope that they find this sustainable alternative just as satisfying as the original.

Wine Pairing Suggestions for Salt Cod (Bacalhau)

Salt cod (bacalhau) and red wine

With the approach of Holy Week (Semana Santa), Brazilians' culinary thoughts turn primarily to two things - chocolate and salt cod (not necessarily together). These two foods are symbolic of the Easter season in Brazil, and in past years Flavors of Brazil has highlighted these food at this time of year. (Click here to read more about salt cod and here for Easter chocolates).

Although Brazilians drink much more beer than wine throughout the year, it's traditional to serve wine at the Good Friday and Easter feasts. As salt cod's traditional link to the Easter season is an inheritance from Portuguese culture, wine is the customary beverage, as Portugal has always been a wine-loving nation.

The problem is that pairing salt cod (bacalhau) with wine is a tricky business, and one can go seriously wrong. Salt cod's high salinity and complexity of the way it is normally cooked with other flavors such as onion, tomatoes, potatoes, olives, olive oil, etc. make it difficult to find a wine that stands up to the strong flavors and that complements them.

Salt cod (bacalhau) and white wine

In a recent article on the website of Prazeres da Mesa magazine, a number of Brazilian wine writers highlight some interesting suggestions. Here's a bit of what they had to say about suitable varietals to serve with salt cod (translations by Flavors of Brazil).
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Chardonnay (unoaked) - This white wine has a consistent structure and an agreeable freshness. It works well with dishes containing flaked salt cod which normally retains more salt than filets of salt cod.

Carménère -  This Chilean red-wine varietal stands up well to salt cod dishes which contain green peppers, a notoriously tricky flavor when it comes to wine pairings.

Pinot Noir - This grape, known for its smoothness and balance, is recommended when salt cod is roasted or served with few other flavors.

Vinhão (also known as Souzão) - From Northern Portugal's Douro regions, red wines made with this grape combine exceedingly-well with salt cod dishes that contain a lot of olive oil.

Touriga Nacional - Another Portuguese varietal, Touriga Nacional red wines are the perfect accompaniment for salt cod dishes containing cream, or other rich casseroles.

RECIPE - Salt Cod with Coconut Milk and Ginger (Bacalhau ao leite de coco e gengibre)

This recipe, which comes from A Crítica newspaper in Manaus, the largest city in Brazil's Amazonian region, highlights the local-produced  "salt cod" made from piracuru, the world's largest fresh-water fish. (Click here to read more about this salt-cod, known in Brazil as bacalhau da Amazônia.) Although this dish was developed by Manaus chef  Felipe Schaedler specifically to showcase the recently-introduced Amazonian salt cod, it can easily be adapted to standard salt cod, made from fish found in the North Atlantic. Chef Schaedler was recently named Manaus' chef of the year at the young age of 25 by Veja magazine's Comer & Beber Manaus. Currently, unless you live in the Amazon basin, you'll have to make this substitution, as bacalhau da Amazônia is only available in the region. Soon, however, it should be available elsewhere in Brazil, and potentially in other world markets.

Chef Schaedler combines the fish with local flavorings coconut milk, ginger and orange juice to give the dish a tropical feel. Most traditional Brazilian recipes for salt cod derive from Portuguese originals, and consequently are combined with vegetables that can grow in temperate zones and with seasoning found in European pantries. This modern take on salt cod Brazilianizes it by combining it with flavorings that are tropical in origin. However, in today's global economy, these flavorings are widely available in non-tropical countries, so the ingredients for this dish should not be difficult to source almost anywhere.
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RECIPE - Salt Cod with Coconut Milk and Ginger (Bacalhau ao leite de coco e gengibre)

2 lbs (1 kg) good-quality salt cod
extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 red bell-pepper, seeded and diced
1 cup coconut milk
1 Tbsp fresh ginger, grated, with its juice
4 Tbsp fresh-squeezed orange juice
cilantro or Italian parsley (optional)
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Three days before cooking, place the salt cod in a pan or deep platter and cover with fresh cold water. Place in the refrigerator. Twice a day remove the fish from the refrigerator, drain it, cover again with fresh cold water and replace in the fridge. When ready to cook, drain thoroughly, cut into serving sized pieces and reserve.

Preheat the oven to 350F (170C). Place the fish in a roasting pan, drizzle with plenty of extra-virgin olive oil, and roast for about 20-25 minutes, or until the fish begins to brown and is starting to flake.

Meanwhile, in a medium sauce pan, heat a small amount of olive oil, then saute the onions, garlic and red bell peppers until the vegetables are softened but not browned. Add the orange juice, bring to a boil and reduce the liquid by half. Stir in the grated ginger. Add the coconut milk, bring to a boil, reduce slightly to thicken. Reserve.

When the fish is cooked, remove it from the oven. Spread some of the coconut milk-ginger sauce on the bottom of a deep dinner plate, then place a piece of roasted fish on top. You may garnish with a leaf of two of Italian parsley or cilantro. Serve with write rice or mashed potato.

Brazil's Domestic Bacalhau Arrives on the Scene

Bacalhau, which is salted and semi-dried cod fish and which is known in English as salt cod, has roots in Brazilian food culture that go back to the arrival of the very first Europeans to arrive on these shores. Portuguese fishermen were fishing cod in the cold waters of the North Atlantic as early as the 15th century and most of their harvest was preserved by salting and drying the catch. Salt cod was carried on board Portuguese caravels on their early voyages of exploration and when Pedro Cabral made the first European landing in Brazil in 1500, his ship carried significant stocks of salt cod to feed his crew. Ever since that day Brazilians have been eating bacalhau and it has become an indispensible part of Brazilian cuisine.

Bacalhau is linked to holiday eating patterns in Brazil and is a feature of both Christmas and Easter feasts. At these times, when family memories tend to be the longest, Brazilians find comfort in eating bacalhau just the way that vovó (grandma) used to make it. But even when neither of the two large Christian holidays is near, Brazilians eat bacalhau for Sunday lunch, traditionally the biggest meal of the week, and for other daily meals and snacks.

Because cod is a cold-water fish and the waters in the oceans off Brazil's coasts are mostly warm water, up to now all of Brazil's bacalhau has had to be imported, 97% of the total coming from Norway. Each year, Brazil imports 30 thousand tons of the fish from Norway to meet its needs, making Brazil the largest cod-importing nation in the world. In 2010, Brazil spent 1.03 billion Norwegian kroners (about 175m USD) buying salt cold. That's a lot of money, and that's just the import price. By the time bacalhau arrives at the retail level, whether fish shop or super market, it has become a very expensive food. Average Brazilian retail price in 2011 was approximately R$90/kg, which works out to about USD$22.60/lb. But even with these high prices, which go higher every year, Brazilians do not seem to be willing to forego their bacalhau.

Location of Maraã

In 2011, there were the first stirrings of what might be a dramatic shift in the market for salt cod in Brazil. In August, in the isolated village of Maraã in Brazil's gigantic Amazonian rain forest, Brazil's first factory of domestically-produced "bacalhau" opened. Located in an area of the forest which has been designated a Sustainable Development Reserve (RDS in Portuguese), and built with support from state and federal governments, a cooperative factory processes a fresh-water fish from the Amazon called pirarucu the very same way that bacalhau is produced from cod and with very similar results. The pirarucu is the world's largest fresh water fish, reaching up to 150 kg (over 300 lbs) and yielding up to 70 kg (over 140 lbs) of meat per fish. Fishing of Piracuru in the RDS is monitored and controlled for sustainability, and the Maraã cooperative only uses fish from the reserve to produce its "bacalhau da Amazônia". The product is marketed under that name to avoid confusion with true bacalhau, which must come from cod.

At the end of 2011, the first commercial production of "bacalhau da Amazônia" reached supermarkets in Manaus, the largest city in the Amazon basin, as well as other cities in the region just in time for the Christmas season. The retail price ranged between R$35 and R$50 per kilo, or about half of the price of Norwegian bacalhau. Customers liked the price, of course, and first reports are that they also liked the product, comparing it favorably to true bacalhau.

In December, 2011, representatives of Brazil's largest chain of supermarkets, Pão de Açúcar, visited the factory in Maraã in the hopes of creating a commercial partnership with the cooperative to market and sell "bacalhau da Amazônia" in other regions of Brazil.

In many ways, the potential for "bacalhau da Amazônia" is enormous. The world's largest fresh-water fish, farmed sustainably, used to supply the world's largest import market for salt cold - it all makes very good sense. Flavors of Brazil wonders if the Norwegians might be looking at this scheme with a nervous eye.

Brazil's Ash Wednesday Diet

Officially, in Brazil as in other Christian countries around the world, the Wednesday that follows Carnaval marks the beginning of a40-day period of renunciation leading up to Easter Sunday. Lent (Quaresma in Portuguese) is considered a time of mourning, repentence and abstinence, and there are traditional dietary restrictions associated with the Lenten period.

According to the Roman Catholic calendar, the 40 days of Lent are divided into days of abstinence and days of fasting. Fasting, in the Christian sense, means reducing one's daily food intake to one full meal and two small meals. Fasting is appropriate to the whole Lenten period. Sundays during Lent are not considered part of Lent itself, so fasting is not required on Sundays. In addition to the daily fasting requirement, there are two days during Lent, Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, in which abstinence is required. Abstinence in this sense means the elimination of meat from the diet (fish are not considered meat).

In fact, in contemporary Brazilian Catholicism, those two days, Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, are the only two days in the entire year when abstinence is obligatory.

During Lent, the majority of Brazilians eat their daily meals on their normal pattern, and the idea of only one full meal a day is mostly restricted to religious communities. Abstaining from meat on Ash Wednesday and Good Friday is a common practice among Brazilian Catholics, however, and many Brazilians choose to remember the religious significance of those two days by not consuming meat.

Traditionally, during periods of abstinence, fish or eggs are substituted for the forbidden meat and become the central focus of the meal. In earlier times, before the introduction of electric refrigeration, fresh fish was unobtainable in many places, particularly those far from water. People in these locations largely depended on salt cod (bacalhau) to nourish them on days of abstinence. Today, even though modern transportation and refrigeration allow the sale of fresh fish far from the waters they lived in, Brazilians associate salt cod with abstinence and often prefer it to fresh fish.

salt cod (bacalhau)

Consequently, if you ask a Brazilian what he or she plans on eating today, there's a very good chance that it will be salt cod. Shelves in supermarkets have been laden with bacalhau for the past couple of weeks, and as families get together to recover from the madness of Carnaval, it's most often around a dinner table set for a meal of bacalhau.

RECIPE - Salt Cod Provençal (Bacalhau Provençal)

Exactly a year ago today, Flavors of Brazil published an article about the importance of salt cod (bacalhau) in the Brazilian celebration of Christmas. (Click here to read more.) Brazilians, like many of us, associate the Christmas meal with turkey, but the historical and emotional connections between this holiday season and salt cod are equally strong for Brazilians in all reaches of the country. A sumptious Christmas buffet for the entire extended family in Brazil will most likely have both a turkey and a dish made from salt cod.

So, in the Brazilian spirit of the season, we're offering up this easy-to-make and easy-to-love recipe for salt cod. Though the name refers to Provence, in France, the recipe is traditional Brazilian. The name Provençal  might simply be due to the presence of ingredients that are essential to the cuisine of the Mediterranean coast of France - olives, bay leaves, white wine and olive oil (lots of olive oil). Whatever the reason for the name, it's a dish that graces many a Christmas dinner table in Brazil, and one that is worthy of a place at your table- at any time of year.
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RECIPE - Salt Cod Provençal (Bacalhau Provençal)
Serves 8 to 10 as part of a buffet

4 lb (2 kg) desalted salt cod (bacalhau) - click here for desalting instructions
2 lb (1 kg) medium boiling potatoes, unpeeled, cooked until they are barely al dente
1/2 cup pitted black olives, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup pitted green olives, coarsely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup )125 ml) dry white wine
4/5 bay leaves
salt and fresh-ground black pepper to taste
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Bring to a boil in a large sauce pan plenty of water and the bay leaves. When the water boils, reduce heat slightly and add the desalted salt cod. Let cook for five minutes, then drain the fish and let cool. When the fish is cool, remove any large bones or pieces of skin that you find. Cut the fish into large chunks and reserve.

Preheat the oven to 400F (200C). In a enameled metal, glass or ceramic casserole dish distribute the chunks of salt cod on the bottom, season with black pepper and pour the white wine over. Strew the potatoes on top of the fish then pour half of the olive oil over all. Put in the oven for about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the casserole from the oven and sprinkle the olives over the surface, then return the dish to the oven for 5 more minutes.

Remove the dish from the oven, pour the remaining olive oil over all, then either serve immediately, or let the dish cool until it's just warm and serve.

RECIPE - Bolinho de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Fritters)

This is one of Brazil's favorite bar snacks, and many Brazilians I know judge the quality of a bar or boteco by the care and attention with which it prepares bolinho de bacalhau. When a bolinho is well-made, light, with a crispy crust and an almost creamy inside, with plenty of bacalhau (salt cold), there's no better accompaniment in the world to icy-cold beer . When a bolinho is not well-made, when it's stodgy, soggy and greasy, with a strong fishy flavor, there's almost nothing worse.

In the title of this post, I've chosen to translate the Portuguese name for this snack as salt cod fritters. In fact a more literal translation would be little cod fish balls. A number of Internet sources use this translation, but for me it always brings back the old joke about not knowing that cod fish had balls, so Flavors of Brazil is going to stick with fritters. And besides, bolinhos de bacalhau are often not even spherically shaped - I've often seen them in the shape of small American footballs, or shaped like cigars.

Bolinhos de bacalhau are a dish that most people eat in bars or restaurants and few Brazilians make them at home. This is partly because making them is a multi-day process if you include the soaking and de-salting time the fish requires. Also, deep-frying fish in one's kitchen is an experience which leaves a lingering aroma behind - an aroma that doesn't improve with time. So, we're including the recipe here more to give a sense of what the dish is than in expectation that the blog's readers are all going to run out to prepare salt cod fritters for dinner tonight. For those few brave souls who might want to impress some Brazilian friends, or who want to offer an absolutely delicious canape to dinner guests, the recipe's for you.

In Brazil, bolinhos de bacalhau are always served with a wedge of fresh lime to squeeze over the fish and often with some sort of mayonnaise-type sauce for dipping. The proper etiquette for eating them is to use a toothpick to dip them if desired then to pop them in the mouth. Many Brazilians are noticeably uncomfortable to see anyone use their hands to help themselves to a communal appetizer. Foreigners sharing a plate of french fries with a bunch of Brazilians be warned.
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RECIPE - Bolinho de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Fritters)

1 lb (500 gr) good quality salt cod
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
4 black peppercorns
2 cups cold mashed potatoes (left-over is fine)
2 Tbsp Italian parsley, finely chopped
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
salt and pepper to taste
neutral vegetable oil for deep-frying
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At least 24 hours before beginning to cook, soak the cod in cold water in the refrigerator, draining the fish and changing the water at least 4 times - you can begin up to 48 hours before cooking. Remove the soaked fish from the refrigerator, rinse well in plenty of running cold water, drain well and reserve.

In a medium sauce pan add the sliced onion, bay leaf and peppercorns and 2 cups cold water. Bring to a simmer and let simmer for 5 minutes. Add the cod and 2 more cups cold water and again bring to a simmer. Once it has reached the simmering point, remove from the heat. Let the fish cool completely in the cooking liquid. Reserve, in the refrigerator if not cooking immediately.

Remove the cod from the cooking liquid, and using forks or your fingers flake it well. The flakes should be quite small. Combine the cod and the mashed potatoes in a mixing bowl, then stir in the chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper, watching the salt carefully because of the cod. When thoroughly mixed reserve at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Meantime, prepare a deep fryer using fresh oil, and bring the oil to 375F (190C). Using lightly oiled hands form the cod-potato mixture into small balls about 1.5 in in diameter (3 cm). Fry them in the hot oil until nicely browned and crisp, in batches if necessary to avoid crowding. Drain briefly on paper towels then serve immediately, garnished with fresh lime wedges and (optionally any type of mayonnaise-based sauce, such as tartar sauce).

Salt Cod (Bacalhau) - Some Buying Tips

We're now well into Lent and only a few weeks away from Easter. Which means it's salt cod (bacalhau) season in Brazil. Long since having moved upmarket from a Lenten food for the poor to a luxurious holiday treat, salt cod is served in abundance throughout the 40 days of Lent, even by Brazilians who are not observant Catholics, or for that matter, Christians at all.

When one walks into a Brazilian supermarket at this time of year there are two things that immediately strike one's senses, reminding you that Easter-season is nigh. Your eyes are struck by the bright multi-colored foil wrappings of giant chocolate Easter eggs suspended overhead, and your nose is hit by the unmistakable aroma of salt cod - fishy and redolent of the sea, yet earthy at the same time.

Because salt cod is an expensive food item these days, there is a wide range of product available at a wide range of prices in most supermarkets. The national chains are always looking for ways to offer a less-expensive alternative for those who cannot afford the best pieces of this dried fish. It's important to know a bit about salt cod when buying it - what the differences are from piece to piece, and whether a particular piece is worth the price or not.

Here are some tips to keep in mind when buying salt cod, whether at Easter or at any other time. They'll help you make sure you're getting the best piece of fish possible for whatever price you are paying.

• Not all salt cod comes from the same species - for that matter not all salt cod is even from cod species. The best salt cod comes from true Atlantic cod (species: Gadus morhua). Other species, such as Ling, Pollock and Zarbo are inferior (in roughly that order).
• If not identified on the packaging, true cod can be identified by the thickness of the flesh, the straightness of the tail of the fillet, and its uniform straw-like color. White-fleshed salt cod isn't true cod. Also, the skin peels easily from the flesh in true cod - use your fingers to try to peel away a small corner.
•  Good salt cod should be quite dry, with no visible moisture. If you can bend a piece in your hands, it's not good quality.
• Good-quality cod is covered by a uniform layer of hardened salt. The salt should be visible to the eye.

Shopping for fish, whether fresh or salted, is a matter of being a discerning customer and knowing the signals that tell you if the piece you're considering purchasing is good or bad. A little bit of knowledge can help you avoid making a mistake - and with current salt cod prices, an expensive mistake.

On the Road - Rio de Janeiro (Pt. 1) - The Cuisine of Rio (Comida Carioca)

Flavors of Brazil spent the New Year's holiday in Rio de Janeiro, celebrating New Year's Eve (Reveillon in Portuguese) along with millions of others on Rio's famous Copacabana beach - attending a free concert by some of Brazil's most famous musical talents, and being astounded by the amazing 20 minute firework show that kicked off 2011 in Brazil.

I took advantage of this trip to Brazil's most famous city and tourist destination to learn more about the carioca food culture. (Carioca is a Portuguese word that means a person from Rio de Janeiro, or any object connect to that city). Of all Brazilian cities, Rio  is the city that most retains a Lusitanian, or Portuguese, quality. For much of Brazil's colonial and post-colonial history - up to the construction of a new capital, Brasília, in the 1960s - Rio was Brazil's largesst city and capital. For a time in the 19th century, Rio was the capital not only of Brazil, but of the entire Portuguese empire - Portugal, Brazil, Guinea, Angola, Mozambique, Goa, Macau and others. So it's entirely natural that many dishes that come from Portugal are now considered part of carioca cuisine, often little changed from their Portuguese roots.

Cariocas inherited a love of salt cod (bacalhau) in all its forms from the Portuguese. A New Year's Eve party would not be complete without at least one dish of bacalhau, often the well-known Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá. When the weather turns chilly in Rio, during the winter months of July and August, cariocas yearn for a hot, satisfying bowl of the Portuguese soup known as caldo verde. Rio is also known for it's pastries and sweets, and many of the best-loved of these originated in the convents of Portugual.

Rio de Janeiro is a city with a strong and vibrant black culture, but interestingly, unlike Salvador, Bahia, it hasn't developed an african-based food culture. It is also home to many immigrant communities, and as an internationally known destination city, fittingly, it is home to restaurants from all the cuisines of the world. But true carioca cuisine is strongly based on those original colonial ties to the Portuguese motherland.

RECIPE - Christmas Eve Salt Cod (Bacalhau da Consoada)

This recipe, which clearly points to a Portuguese origin, is the kind of salt cod (bacalhau) dish one is likely to find served at a Brazilian Christmas Eve feast, late at night on December 24th.

Harking back to the prohibition of eating meat on December 24th, salt cod has a long association with Christmas Eve in Brazil. But today most Brazilians don't eat the fish on this day because they've been told to do so by the Church. It's because for most of them, salt cod is traditionally linked to Christmas Eve, and it's quite unthinkable not to have at least one dish featuring this preserved fish on the buffet table.

Normally, Christmas Eve salt cod is a relatively unfancy dish, highlighting the taste and texture of the de-salted and reconstituted cod. This recipe is typical, and typically delicious.

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RECIPE - Christmas Eve Salt Cod (Bacalhau da Consoada)
Serves 4

4 pieces, good quality, center-cut salt cod fillets
2 lbs. boiling potatoes
1 lb. kale
4 fresh eggs
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil
salt and wine vinegar to taste
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The day before serving, soak the fish in cold water in the refrigerator, changing the water and rinsing the fish several times, for at least 24 hours. Drain and reserve.

Peel the potatoes and halve or quarter them depending on size. Trim the kale leaves, removing the stems, but keeping them whole.

Fill two large saucepans with water and bring both to the boil. In one pan place the eggs and half the fish. In the other place the kale and the other half of the fish. Reduce heat and simmer both pans for approximately 20-25 minutes, or until the fish is just tender and beginning to flake.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a frying pan, add the chopped garlic and cook until the garlic is lightly browned. Remove from heat, add wine vingar to taste. Pour into a sauce bowl, whisk to combine thoroughly, and keep warm.

Using a stainer or large spoon, remove the eggs, potatoes, kale and cod from the pans of boiling water. Peel and halve the eggs. Drain everything else thoroughly, then arrange everything nicely on a large serving platter. Serve immediately with the garlic-vinegar sauce on the side.

Recipe translated and adapted from 1001 Receitas de Bacalhau.

Brazil's Other Christmas Dish - Salt Cod (Bacalhau)

December 24th's midnight Christmas feast, known in Brazil as Ceia de Natal or Ceia de Consoada, normally features turkey or other poultry. But unlike North American Christmas dinners, where turkey is likely to be the only main course, Brazil's feast will almost always include at least one dish of salt cod (in Portuguese, bacalhau).

Eating salt cod on Christmas Eve is a tradition that came to Brazil from Portugal. In earlier times the 24th of December, as well as every Friday and a number of holy days, was a day on which the Roman Catholic Church forbade the consumption of meat. It was a day of fasting, or abstinence. Consequently, the evening meal on Christmas Eve was seafood-based, and salt cod was a natural choice for the main course as it was available throughout the year and was very cheap.

Today, of course, salt cod is anything but cheap, even here in Brazil. Nonetheless, the tradition of including bacalhau on the the Christmas buffet table is alive and kicking in this country. In the weeks leading up to Christmas most supermarkets will feature salt cod with large displays of various sizes and quality of this dried, salted and preserved fish. The supermarket aisles near the bacalhau display are redolent with the strong small of fish. And the more subtle and appetizing aroma of desalted and cooked bacalhau graces the dining table of most Brazilian homes on this night of family feasts.

RECIPE - Bolinhos de Bacalhau (Salt Cod Balls)

These small snacks made from bacalhau (salt cod) are a favorite in bars and at the beach everywhere in Brazil, and are not specifically considered as something associated with Easter. They are eaten all year round, usually washed down with ice-cold Brazilian beer. Although I never deep-fry anything at home because of the smell of fried food, and try not to eat too much that has been deep-fried even in restaurants due to health concerns, I do have a real weak spot for these treats. When they're on offer, they are very difficult to resist.

As I don't deep-fry at home, I haven't made this recipe myself. I include it for interest, and in case anyone would like to make these bolinhos (in English: little balls) at home.

Bom apetite!
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RECIPE - Bolinhos de Bacalhau (Salt-Cod Balls)
Makes 10

2.5 lbs. (1 kg.) bacalhau, desalted and de-skinned - click here for technique
2.5 lbs. (1 kg.) red-skinned potatoes
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. Extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic
3 Tbsp. Italian parsley, finely chopped
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Neutral vegetable oil for frying
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Place the salt cod in heavy saucepan with cold fresh water to cover, bring to a boil over medium heat, and boil gently until tender. Drain, let cool, and reserve.

Meanwhile, place the potatoes in oven-proof pan or dish, and roast in pre-heated 425F degree (220C) oven for one hour. Remove from oven, let cool slightly, peel, and then mash them. Let cool completely then reserve.

Using your hands, flake the bacalhau into very small pieces, making sure to remove all bones. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a heavy-duty frying pan, then add the bacalhau, the bay leaves and the garlic and fry until the mixture is lightly browned, and dry. Discard the bay leaves, let cool, and reserve.

When ready to serve, heat the vegetable oil in deep-fryer or deep pan, taking care not to burn or heat too high. Mix the bacalhau, the mashed potatoes and the chopped parsley, being sure to create a homogenous mixture. Add black pepper to taste.

Form the mixture into balls of approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) diameter, using well-oiled hands to avoid sticking. Fry in the hot oil until nicely browned on all sides. Remove from oil, drain on paper towels, and serve immediately, garnished with wedges of fresh limes.

Recipe translated and adapted from Cozinha Regional Brasileira from Abril Editora.

RECIPE - Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is the most common way for Brazilian families to serve salt cod (bacalhau) at the traditional Good Friday meal. Good Friday is traditionally meatless, and eating Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá is a way to connect with the communal past, and celebrate the connections between Brazil and Portugal, where this dish originated.

This dish is one of the few traditional recipes for which there is a known time and place of origin, and a known originator. The dish is named for its creator, José Luis Gomes de Sá Junior (1851 - 1926), who was a cook at the Restaurante Lisbonense in Porto, Portugal, where he created his eponymous dish.

The recipe itself is not complicated, and other than requiring the time for desalting and rehydrating the bacalhau, does not require a large investment of time. It's absolutely delicious, and perfect for serving a large gathering.

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RECIPE - Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá
Serves 8

2 lbs. (800 gr.) dry-weight salt cod, desalted, rehydrated and skinned (click here for technique)
6 lbs. (3 kgs.) boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 inch (4 cm.) chunks
2 large onions, thickly sliced
3 cloves garlic
6 eggs
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata-type black olives
2 medium, ripe tomatoes, sliced
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 Hard-cook the eggs. Cool, peel and reserve. Cook the potatoes in boiling water until just tender, but not falling apart. Drain, cool and reserve. Simmer the bacalhau in a separate pan of water until just tender. Drain and cool. Using fingers, flake the cooled bacalhau into large flakes, taking care to remove all bones. Reserve. (All this can be done in advance).

In a large heavy frying pan, heat the oil, then add the onions and saute them. When they begin to color, add the garlic, taking care that it does not burn. Continue sauteing until the onion and garlic are lightly golden. Remove from heat.

In a large glass or ceramic oven dish (like a lasagne pan), alternate layers of potatoes, bacalhau, eggs and the onion/garlic mixture until all ingredients are used up. Place the black olives and tomato slices on the surface of the dish, then sprinkle with the parsley. Place in a pre-heated, medium oven (350F) for approximately 30 minutes, or until the dish is bubbling hot, and the top is lightly browned.

Remove from oven, and drizzle with best quality extra-virgin olive oil. Serve at table directly from the cooking dish. Accompany the dish with white rice and a salad of greens.

Recipe translated and adapted from Wikipédia português.

Techniques - Desalting Salt Cod (Bacalhau)

Since salt cod (bacalhau) is always sold salted and dried, it's necessary to desalt and rehydrate it before it can be used in cooking. Depending on how salty the fish is, this process should begin 24 to 48 hours prior to cooking the fish. If the bacalhau is very dry and covered with salt, start earlier. If it still has some moisture in the flesh and no visible salt, you can begin only 24 hours before.

Prior to the desalting and rehydrating process, if the bacalhau is still in the form of fillets, the fillets should be cut into thick slices of approximately 3 inches each. Most bacalhau is sold with the skin of the fish still attached, and it's better (and easier) to remove the skin prior to desalting. Simply lift the skin away from the flesh with a sharp knife at one corner of the piece, and then grasp the skin with a hand towel and firmly peel it away from the flesh.

Place the skinless pieces of bacalhau in a large bowl, preferably of glass or ceramic, then cover with cold, fresh water. The bowl should then be covered and placed in the refrigerator. (Bacalhau desalted at room temperature spoils very quickly). Every 6 hours or so, the fish must be removed from the refrigerator, drained, rinsed, returned to the bowl and covered with fresh water.

You can separate a small sample of fish and taste it to determine if it has been sufficiently desalted prior to begin cooking. The sample does not have to be cooked - bacalhau can be eaten safely uncooked, as the preserving technique "cooks" the flesh without heat.

The Foods of Easter in Brazil - Salt Cod (Bacalhau)

Foods associated with Easter in Brazil include not only the sweet (click here to read further) but the salty. Eating salt cod (in Portuguese bacalhau) is traditional throughout the country, and on the Good Friday holiday eating bacalhau approaches the obligatory category, like turkey on North American Thanksgiving.

Brazilians love bacalhau and serve it in many forms year-round, not just at Easter time. This is part of the culinary heritage that Brazil received from its former colonial power, Portugal. The Portuguese were among the first nations to employ bacalhau in their diets, and fished for Atlantic cod (Gadus Morhua) in the cold seas of Canada, Newfoundland, and Norway as early as the late 1400s. Before the arrival of electrical refrigeration, salting was probably the most important method of preservation of food, and the Portuguese were early discoverers of the possibilities of international trade in bacalhau. In time, the Portuguese discovered the gastronomic possibilities of bacalhau, and passed their love of this salted fish on to the Brazilians.

Unfortunately, bacalhau is loved too well, not just in Portugal and Brazil, but throughout the world, and stocks of Atlantic cod have been decimated. Severe overfishing has led to collapse of the stock, and the long term outlook for a revival of a sustainable Atlantic cod fishery is decidedly dim. Today, much of the bacalhau sold in supermarkets and fish markets in Brazil comes from other species, some related to Atlantic cod and some not. Whatever the species though, bacalhau, which began as a way to cheaply feed the poor has become an expensive luxury here in Brazil and elsewhere.

Whatever the price, Brazilians are still willing to pay for the traditional privilege of eating bacalhau at Easter. This week, Brazilian supermarkets are laden with vast quantities of it, and the rather pungent smell of this salted fish wafts from one aisle to another. Few shoppers leave the market without at least a small package of salt cod and a chocolate Easter egg. That's the Brazilian Easter basket.

In the next few posts, I'll provide some traditional Brazilian and Portuguese recipes for bacalhau at Easter time. The product is available in many supermarkets, and in all Portuguese and Italian markets, in North America. If you want an alternative to the Easter ham or lamb this year, go Brazilian and serve bacalhau.