RECIPE - Coquina in Wine (Tarioba ao Vinho)

This recipe from the state of Maranhão features a mollusk known as tarioba in Portuguese and as giant false coquina in English. (Click here for more information on tarioba). It comes from Ana Lula, the chef and proprietor of a well-known restaurant/bar called Antigamente in the historic center of São Luís. Self-taught as a chef, Ana Lula has been in charge at Antigamente for more than 20 years, and this is one of her most popular dishes.

Although the recipe specifies tarioba, I'm sure that it could be made successfully with whatever species of fresh clam is available in your local market - whatever species, that is, with the exception of goeduck!
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RECIPE - Coquina in Wine (Tarioba ao Vinho)
Serves 4

2 dozen medium-sized tarioba or other clams, cleaned and washed, but unshelled
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 medium onion, finely minced
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 serrano or jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped, to taste
1/4 cup cilantro, finely chopped
1/4 cup green onion, green parts only, finely chopped
1 cup dry white wine
salt to taste
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In a large saucepan, heat half of the olive oil. Add the chopped tomato, onion and garlic. Cook for 1 or 2 minutes, stirring. Add the clams and cook for 5 more minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the chile, the cilanto and green onion. Stir. Add the wine. Bring quickly to a boil, reduce heat slightly, and let cook for 5 minutes. Taste for salt and season if required.

Remove from heat, add the remaining olive oil, stir quickly to mix, and serve.

Recipe translated and adapted from Cozinha Regional Brasileira by Abril Editora.

On the Road - Maranhão (Pt. 5) Tarioba

The coastline of Brazil's northeastern state of Maranhão sometimes resembles the sandy beaches of my state, Ceará, but more often is backed with muddy mangrove swamps and lagoons. That's bad news for tourists and beachlovers, but very good news indeed for lovers of shellfish, as these lagoons and swamps are havens for enormous numbers of crustaceans and mollusks of all types. On its upcoming visit to the capital of Maranhão, São Luís, Flavors of Brazil intends to sample as many of the local varieties of seafood as possible.

The cuisine of São Luís reflects its geographical position on an island which the open ocean on one side, and swamps and lagoons on the other. Traditional local cuisine is depends heavily by what is available in the waters that surround the city, and the city is renowned for shellfish preparations.

One of the most popular local shellfish is a clam-like creature called the tarioba. Known rather ungainlily in English as the giant false coquina, this mollusk has the beautiful scientific name of Iphigenia brasiliensis. I'm not clear as to why it's called a giant, as the average size is only 2.5 inches (6.5 cm). It can be found in Atlantic waters from the southern half of Florida to Brazil. However, it appears that as a food source, the tarioba is much more valued in Brazil than it is in the USA under the name giant coquina. A recipe search on the internet turned up only one recipe for coquina chowder, on the website of the Postal Workers of Southwest Florida. A similar search for tarioba recipes turned up dozens.

Flavors of Brazil loves clams and mussels, so when we're in São Luís, we'll be trying to track down the tarioba. On our return, we hope to fill you in on the gastronomic merits of this little "giant" bivalve.